Recent Destination reports
This captivating coastline has much to offer
The western coast of Italy, the front of the boot, if you like, stretches on a long northwest/southeast line from the border with France, where it is bordered by the Ligurian Sea, to the toe where Italy and Sicily are separate by just a narrow strip of sea, the Messina Straits. The sea to the East of Corsica and Sardinia is known as the Tyrrhenian Sea.
This captivating coastline has much to offer – not only pretty little harbours and picturesque yacht havens, but ports which give you access to some of Italy’s finest treasures.
The Riviera di Levante, stretching from Genoa to La Spezia, owes its spectacular scenery to the Ligurian Appenines, whose jagged outline shows dark against the sky at dusk. Its ridges and outcrops reach to the very waters edge, with rocky cliffs, topped by luscious vegetation and brilliantly coloured bougainvillea, plunges straight down into the azure waters below. Not surprising, then, that a pretty village such as Portofino offering a perfect natural harbour should be high on the list of the Mediterranean jetsetters. The waters before the harbour are crammed with yachts of all sizes. Pleasure craft arrive regular with a cargo of passengers from along the coast, sail boats of all shapes and sizes bob in the bay, and huge monsters with names such as ??? and ???? boast helicopter pads, teak marinas and uniformed crew. The renowned Orient Express Hotel Il Spendido perches on the hill side, the perfect choice for pre-lunch bellinis.
At first sight, you might mistake Portofino for a pretty fishing village. Pastel painted houses cluster around the square and along the sea front, and shady lanes snake up the hillside on both sides. But take a closer look at the shops and you will see this is no ordinary village – Dior, Gucci, Prada, rub shoulders with souvenir shops and boat hire agencies – and all appear to be doing good business. A walk up to the lighthouse takes you away from the buzz and gives you the opportunity to stop and enjoy panoramic views along the coastline. But stop for drinks or lunch on the square too – people watching here is highly entertaining.
Along the Tuscan coast, low lying land stretches from the sea to the foothills of the Appenines. Little wonder, when you see it, that the glorious campanile of Pisa should have tilted on the uncertain marshy foundations. Amazing, however, that it should remain standing, its beautiful outline dominating the walled Campo dei Miracoli at Pisa’s heart alongside the amazing cathedral and baptistery. If you want to climb the tower, timed tickets are issued, so it is worth planning ahead.
Pisa is reached from the port of Livorno, a busy commercial port and seaside town. Calls here are specifically made for the access to the Tuscan hinterland – a motorway runs to Firenze and you can be there in about two hours (there is a rail service also). This makes for a long day, though, and Florence should not be rushed. We recommend that instead you take the time to explore nearby Pisa, the beautiful walled town of Lucca, or maybe venture further afield to the Tuscan hill towns if you have been here before.
As you follow the coastline, the island of Elba blocks your way, Napoleon’s island of exile and a fascinating location. Ships stop in the extraordinarily well protected natural harbour of Portoferraio, with Napoleon’s house perched on the hilltop. Those with time to spare will love to explore further afield, but the mountainous terrain makes travel slow.
The port of Civitavecchia is the gateway to Rome. Many ships use this as a turnaround port, so unless they choose to stay on before or after their cruise, passengers on those vessels do not get to see Rome at all. The city is a good hour away from Civitavecchia – if you are there for the day the journey can be done by rail.
Rome, the Eternal City, is a treasure trove of delights, bringing history alive and enabling you to picture life here over thousands of years. An amazing range of Roman buildings are still standing, and more is being unearthed all the time. Any Latin scholar will find the opportunity to stand just where Cicero would have stood, to see sights seen by emperors and to walk streets where Roman citizens jostled and joked, living out their daily lives, quite amazing. Along the Appia Antica you can practically hear the tramp of marching feet, the rattle of wagons along the cobbles. Visit the catacombs where the early Christians buried their dead, meeting to pray in underground rooms and avoiding persecution away from the public gaze.
Hundreds of years later, Rome continued to be a focal point. Home to the Pope, the immense dome of St Peters can be seen throughout the city, and a day spent visiting the amazing treasures of the Vatican museums and Cistine Chapel will give you only the smallest taste of this incredible collections of sculptures, paintings and tapestries. The Basilica itself, its mosaic pictures glowing from every wall, the Altar with its extraordinary gilt bronze Baldachin by Bernini, the beautiful sculptures and marbled columns, is a magnificent sight, made all the more imposing by its years of history and the part it has played over history, from the Renaissance to the present day.
Every street corner boasts a sculpture, every square a fountain, every block a church or two, and to know this city well would take years of walking. The treasures nestled within the walls of even the most humble church are breathtaking, as are the churches built onto remains of far more ancient buildings.
Don’t forget, though, that there is more to Rome than this. As exciting as the amazing architecture is the vibrant street life – a weary tourist can stop and watch the world go by as he stops for sustenance, an espresso, a granite, a pizza alla romana, and believe that truly, all roads lead to this most unusual city.
More magic awaits as you travel further to the glorious bay of Naples, where you might dock in Naples itself, or anchor further south of the little port of Sorrento on the Amalfi peninsula. Either way, the outline of Vesuvius dominates the skyline, looming into the sky and threatening further disaster. From here you can visit the amazingly preserved city of Pompeii, buried in ash for hundreds of years so its well preserved streets and frescoes conjure up the bustle and buzz of everyday life to the imaginative visitor. Alternatively, Herculaneum offers a similar insight into past glories of a wealthy city, destroyed by the eruption in 79AD.
Visitors to Sorrento will glory in the tiny pedestrian back streets, with food stalls selling gargantuan lemons, vegetables of all hues and strings of glowing peppers. Sorrento’s local drink, limoncello, is sold on every corner, along with lemon soaps and unguents of all kinds. Delicious smells emanate from tiny restaurants, and the shops supply normal everyday goods as well as tourist tat.
If you wish to explore the Amalfi peninsula further, the summer roads are tortuous and busy, so you will need plenty of time. Instead, you might choose to take a boat trip along the coast to Amalfi, or a jetfoil to Capri.
Beyond Amalfi, an Italian call is rare. As the old saying goes, Cristo si e fermato a Eboli – this little town, just to the east of Amalfi, beyond which even Christ did not travel. The toe of Italy is another land, and one to explore in a different way. However if your ship takes you onwards, you might sail past Stromboli, its crater glowing in the dark, and on to Sicily, which has its own treasures to offer.
HOW TO GET THERE
Cruises in this area might start in Nice or Monaco, and finish in Rome or Naples. Flying is easy and frequent from the UK, both with scheduled airlines and low cost carriers. With the low cost carriers your baggage allowance is limited, so you might want to consider sending it ahead. If you prefer not to fly, easy rail connections take you from the UK to Nice, and travel by rail in Italy is also straightforward, although you might choose to travel at a more leisurely pace.
WHEN TO GO
Italians tend to holiday in July and August, which means that the coasts are busy at this time, and it can be extremely hot. You might prefer to travel in the shoulder periods when it is less busy and the temperatures lower. Certainly sightseeing is easier before the crowds arrive. Rome is obviously very busy at Easter as well as in the summer














